Sunday, 24 March 2013

Cutting a bolero


Learning to make a bolero is a beginner's sewing project. It takes about an hour to make a bolero and the cost is reasonable. The project uses about a yard of fabric and can be done without a pattern, although I recommend using patterns for more difficult styles of boleros. In this how-to article, I suggest that the reader make a small paper mock-up to understand the shape of the garment and why it can be made with out a formal pattern.
  1. Sketch the shape of the bolero on paper. Cut the paper into the shape. Glue the edges as though they were seams.
  2. 2
    Measure your body for width and length of the garment. Add 1 inch on the length for the hem.

  3. 3
    Purchase enough fabric to match the length and width requirements. Fold the fabric right sides together as you did the paper model. Leave an extra 1 inch on both sides of the width for ease. Leave an extra 1 inch on the bottom for hem. Using a chalk fabric marker, make the neck curve. Using chalk fabric marker, draw the sleeve and side useam lines. Pin just inside the seam line and cut away excess yardage.
  4. 4
    Sew the underarm and side seams. Steam the seams open. Turn the garment right side out. Check the fit.
  5. 5
    Finish the raw edges with either seam binding or iron-on interfacing and hem.

    How Do I Add Sleeves to a Strapless Dress?

    How Do I Add Sleeves to a Strapless Dress?
    For some, a strapless dress provides a wonderful addition to a warm weather wardrobe, but sometimes sits in the closet during the colder months of the year. For others, it is a piece that requires constant tugging and readjustment. Whatever your relationship with the strapless dress, it is a piece that can be easily altered and perfected to your liking. Begin by deciding which sort of alternate style you prefer: spaghetti straps, cap sleeves or long sleeves.
    Skill level:
    Easy


      What's Your Style?

    1. 1
      A thin strap provides minimal coverage and will keep dress in place.
      A thin strap provides minimal coverage and will keep dress in place.
      There are many types of straps that you can add to a strapless dress. A simple spaghetti strap would provide you with some support and can be detachable if you so desire. Find and attach finished straps that match or coordinate with your dress colours.
    2. 2
      Cap sleeves provide extra shoulder coverage and will keep your dress secure.
      Cap sleeves provide extra shoulder coverage and will keep your dress secure.
      Cap sleeves would provide more shoulder coverage. In a casual situation, find a matching or coordinating cap-sleeve T-shirt and simply wear it underneath your dress

    3. 3
      Adding a shawl or bolero is a quick way to change the look of your strapless dress.
      Adding a shawl or bolero is a quick way to change the look of your strapless dress.
      If long sleeves are more your style, find a stylish bolero or shawl to add to your dress.

      Prefer to Permanently Alter Your Garment?

    1. 1
      Pick a matching fabric or stylish ribbon to accentuate your dress.
      Pick a matching fabric or stylish ribbon to accentuate your dress.
      If you'd like to add permanent spaghetti straps to your dress, find matching fabric or ribbon and tack both the front and back of the dress.
    2. 2
      To arm your dress with cap sleeves, measure your fabric and cut into a horseshoe shape. This piece should be able to cover your arm, reaching from the front of the dress to the back. Be sure to pick a fabric that meshes well with your dress. Sew a simple hem along the long sides of the horseshoe. Then, attach the unhemmed edges to the strapless dress.
    3. 3
      If working with a shawl, use it to add sleeves to your dress. Find the centre of the shawl and attach with a pin to the front centre portion of the dress. Drape the ends over your shoulders and fix them in to the back of the dress. Adjust according to how much of a tail you desire.



SEW BRIGHT



Things got really busy here, readers, and after a few trial runs, I am ready to launch my own couture business. The content of this blog will slightly change, and I hope I will be able to show some of my work and a few behind-the-seams posts. This will mean, however, less frequent posts as I really want to focus on quality.

The sew-along update will come this week - sorry for the slow speed. I have a lot of respect for those seasoned sew-along organizers like Gretchen, or Casey, or Tasia...  As for me, this skirt sew-along or draft-along will be the last one for a while, sorry. My biggest problem is the time, especially now.

Now, the previous post (the Chanel jacket mysteries) was a lot of fun. I got a looot of great comments, thanks. Isn't it fun to have a look at some amazing garment and pedantically dissect it, section by section.

So here is our next Couturegram post. It is not an haute couture piece, but quite elaborate bustier by Burberry Prorsum. I really liked it - mostly because it is influenced by Dior, and I love Dior (yes, me too). And I love the peplum...

Saks'
Now look at this zipper. While I thought it is a good choice to have a metal zipper which can handle stress, the fabric along it just can't handle all the stress. In the peplum area, along the zipper, it's behaving well, exposing only a thin line of metal teeth - there is no stress in this section. From the waist up, however, there is a lot of pulling.


So, here is my question: what would you do to remedy this problem, or, how would you construct the garment to avoid this pulling at the zipper?

BE PART OF THE "Sew Cute"CONTEST

View more project photos and read more about darkhorse’s entry. (Go here to vote!)
Pattern(s) used: Tonia and Full Skirted Dress with Cut-out Bustline




View more project photos and read more about ceding’s entry. (Go here to vote!)
Pattern(s) used: Theresa



View more project photos and read more about heatherlou’s entry. (Go here to vote!)
Pattern(s) used: Peplum Bouse and Gathered Blouse



View more project photos and read more about suzanneallen’s entry. (Go here to vote!)
Pattern(s) used: Dress with Gathered Rectangle Skirt and Cap Sleeves

You can be involved by showing your flare for creativity. Be part of the diamond sew contest. See you there.


COWL NECK PATTERN TUTORIAL

Feedback and comments are highly appreciated. Also plan to open a flicker pool, in case you happen to use any of my tutorials, i would be happy to see how your creations turned out.

Depending on the response for this tute, i plan to do some tutorials in future. Have a few ideas in mind, may be i shall have a poll and whichever gets your votes, will get featured. What say?

COWL NECK PATTERN DRAFT

STEP 1




STEP 2


STEP 3



  • Cut Out the Traced Pattern on the outline
  • Cut Along Slashed Lines Upto Shoulder Tip and Upto Bust Point, Take care not to cut through them
  • Take another Paper wide and Long enough to accomdate cowl
  • Mark a Point 4 inches from the top of the folded paper. Name it as T
  • Place above cut pattern on folded paper such that
  1. SX touches the guideline
  2. Center Front gets positioned on the fold at the point below bust level


STEP 4

>


  • Fold on SX Line. Cut Out Pattern across all 4 layers of paper starting from S , till S to TS
  • Then Unfold the SX Line and then cut remaining TS-A, A-W, W-D, D-D1, D1-F
  • From Z Draw Curved Line to Join Point T
  • Cut along the curved Line


STEP 5



STEP 6



Place the pattern on bias grain of folded fabric. Yellow paper is to be assumed as fabric and the cowl neck pattern is placed on bias grain line on fold.

Important Note: Test fit this pattern and if you feel neck is gaping too much then try this adjustment slightly move the Cowl pattern placed on fabric outwards from Shoulder to Neck Depth till where you feel it is gaping.

See the picture below where the pattern is slightly placed outside of fabric fold from Shoulder till a certain neck depth so that gaping can be cut out and the cowl will drape elegantly and modesty will also be maintained.




Comments, Queries ,are most welcome!