Pattern Grading

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Added Sep 16, 2011

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Intro

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Google+2  0  1  0  32 Pattern Grading is the process where by patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern. This process can be performed manually or automatically by a computerized system. Patterns are graded according to size charts which present the sizes and the average measurements of the population group for which the garments are intended.In order to produce garment that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a

What is Pattern Grading? Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample size production pattern to make up a complete size range. For example, the sample size 10 patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company sets predetermined grade specifications, or rules. For example, a missy manufacturer’sgrade rules might call for increments of one and a half inches in width and a quarter inchin length for each size. Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern maker guides a cursor around the edges of the sample pattern on a digitized table. At each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to record a grade point. Each point is cross referenced by a grade-rule table stored in the computer, which enlarges or reduces the pattern automatically according to the predetermined direction.If the pattern was originally made by computer, data are already in the computer and can be enlarged or reduced automatically.  Pre-programmed grade rules for increase or decrease are automatically applied to the pieces of each grading location. Then the computer can print out the pattern in each new size. Manufacturers often use an out side service to make patterns, grade patterns, and make the marker Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods, grading, like patternmaking, is becoming increasingly computerized. Using a CAD system, the pattern can be resized according to a predetermined table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out the pattern in each size. Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized manufacturers are beginning to acquire their own CAD systems for grading. Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this function.

Shrinkage When fabric is cut for making garments, it is important to ensure that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjected to any additional tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while layering for cutting. So fabrics are often relaxed prior to cutting to ensure that the shrinkage is minimized in a garment. Garments which are unwashed and can shrink while laundering at customers end are made with measurements with shrinkage tolerance included. Woven fabric garments typically shrink just a little . This will usually be about 2-3% which is fairly unnoticeable. Knits that are not garment dyed will be more effected by washing and drying. Shrinkage for knit fabrics can be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of this shrinkage will take place the first time it is laundered. In these cases shrinkage is incorporated in all the patterns of a garment. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or width wise depending on type of fabric. Shrinkage adjusting Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments.   Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting correct fit and drape of a garment but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique of scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It must be done accurately. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. It’s important to remember that grading only makes a shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that individuals of different sized are proportionately different, not uniformly different. Stacking or “0” point for grading For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the “x” or “y” grading of pattern. It is defined as “0” point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the “0” point is centre of sleeve at the bicep line. Length Grade Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel between sizes. Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided between shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined grading is total of centre front length and neck drop. Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line. Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height grade Sleeve Grade Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhole curve. Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is applied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.

• Intro

COLOUR

How colour theory affects clothes that go together

Complementary Colours

Complementary colours are found on opposite sides of the colour wheel to each other. The term ‘complementary colours’ can be misleading when it comes to fashion advice on the colours that go as it does not necessarily mean that wearing them together will be complementary on you! Rather it means that they complement each other, they bring out and emphasise each other. Perfect if you want to create a striking poster – not so perfect if you’re trying to create a sophisticated outfit.

How to wear them

Unless you are a very confident dresser it is best to avoid wearing complementary colours together. Instead why not try wearing one colour with a paler tint of its opposite, such as green with light pink or blue with pale gold?

 

Analogous Colours

Analogous colours are next to each other on the colour wheel. As they are similar to each other and easy on the eye in combination they make a pleasing palette for an outfit.

How to wear them

Limit yourself to no more than three analogous colours in your outfit. Stick to two and a neutral and you can’t go wrong.

Failsafe colour palettes for successful dressing

(Bear in mind combinations from the color wheel)

• 2 colours and 1 neutral e.g. green,
  yellow and white
• 1 colour and 1 neutral e.g. black and red
• 1 colour and 2 neutrals e.g. purple,
  black and grey
• 2 or 3 neutrals e.g. black and white

• 2 or 3 warm neutrals e.g. brown and cream
• 1 pattern and 1 or 2 plain neutrals
• 1 pattern and 1 plain colour from within the pattern
• 1 pattern, 1 neutral and 1 plain colour from within the pattern

General fashion advice on colours that go

If you’re wearing more than one item the same colour, make sure they are either exactly the same colour, or clearly different shades of the same colour. Nearly the same but not quite is not a good look as it looks like you’ve tried to match exactly and failed.

If you’re wearing all black don’t wear brown shoes. Black and brown can be tricky to wear together without looking mismatched so if you do, make sure you pull it together with accessories to make it into a real colour scheme rather than looking accidental.

Brown and ‘warm neutrals’ look lovely when combined together and make great fashion colours for fall or autumn. However, they do not mix well with warm tones such as red, pink and purple so instead team them with cool colours such as blue or green.

A small splash of a warm colour in a cool colour palette add interest without overdoing it e.g. a red tie on a blue shirt or yellow accessories with a green dress.

Lots of pastel colours together can look too sugary sweet. Try one pastel colour with a neutral (e.g. pale pink and grey) or a pastel with a deep version of the same colour instead (e.g. pale blue and dark blue)

Keep to one pattern only per outfit, even if the colours match.

Limit yourself to 3 colours (including neutrals) per outfit, unless the additional colours make up a pattern or print.

Don’t mix black and navy.

Don’t mix white and cream.

Don’t mix brown and grey.

COLOUR

How colour theory affects clothes that go together

Complementary Colours

Complementary colours are found on opposite sides of the colour wheel to each other. The term ‘complementary colours’ can be misleading when it comes to fashion advice on the colours that go as it does not necessarily mean that wearing them together will be complementary on you! Rather it means that they complement each other, they bring out and emphasise each other. Perfect if you want to create a striking poster – not so perfect if you’re trying to create a sophisticated outfit.

How to wear them

Unless you are a very confident dresser it is best to avoid wearing complementary colours together. Instead why not try wearing one colour with a paler tint of its opposite, such as green with light pink or blue with pale gold?

 

Analogous Colours

Analogous colours are next to each other on the colour wheel. As they are similar to each other and easy on the eye in combination they make a pleasing palette for an outfit.

How to wear them

Limit yourself to no more than three analogous colours in your outfit. Stick to two and a neutral and you can’t go wrong.

Failsafe colour palettes for successful dressing

(Bear in mind combinations from the color wheel)

• 2 colours and 1 neutral e.g. green,
  yellow and white
• 1 colour and 1 neutral e.g. black and red
• 1 colour and 2 neutrals e.g. purple,
  black and grey
• 2 or 3 neutrals e.g. black and white

• 2 or 3 warm neutrals e.g. brown and cream
• 1 pattern and 1 or 2 plain neutrals
• 1 pattern and 1 plain colour from within the pattern
• 1 pattern, 1 neutral and 1 plain colour from within the pattern

General fashion advice on colours that go

If you’re wearing more than one item the same colour, make sure they are either exactly the same colour, or clearly different shades of the same colour. Nearly the same but not quite is not a good look as it looks like you’ve tried to match exactly and failed.

If you’re wearing all black don’t wear brown shoes. Black and brown can be tricky to wear together without looking mismatched so if you do, make sure you pull it together with accessories to make it into a real colour scheme rather than looking accidental.

Brown and ‘warm neutrals’ look lovely when combined together and make great fashion colours for fall or autumn. However, they do not mix well with warm tones such as red, pink and purple so instead team them with cool colours such as blue or green.

A small splash of a warm colour in a cool colour palette add interest without overdoing it e.g. a red tie on a blue shirt or yellow accessories with a green dress.

Lots of pastel colours together can look too sugary sweet. Try one pastel colour with a neutral (e.g. pale pink and grey) or a pastel with a deep version of the same colour instead (e.g. pale blue and dark blue)

Keep to one pattern only per outfit, even if the colours match.

Limit yourself to 3 colours (including neutrals) per outfit, unless the additional colours make up a pattern or print.

Don’t mix black and navy.

Don’t mix white and cream.

Don’t mix brown and grey.